Unfussy Southern-European Fare at Monroe by Becky Cooper

"Twenty years ago, Brooklyn was the Wild West. Now if you want grimy you come here," a bar-side patron explained. He was talking about Monroe, the latest offering in the area, south of Manhattan's East Broadway stop on the F train, known as Two Bridges. The neighborhood is still relatively ungentrified, despite the recent intrusion of beautiful-people eateries like Dimes, Mr. Fong's, and Kiki's. Kiki's may be the sex…

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